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Oct 8, 2013 / 9 notes

Tocca SS14

-New York Fashion Week-

Sometimes clothes can just be a little too pretty. It’s a fine line, and Tocca designer Emma Fletcher earned a devoted following for her old label, Lyell, because she was so intuitively good at landing on the right side of it. This season, though, she over-sugared the mix. The collection was a riff on off-duty ballerinas, a rather sweet reference to start out with, but one that Fletcher spun in a streetwise, New York City-in-the-seventies direction. A few of the ensembles seemed to have wandered off the set of some never-made Scorsese film about a dancer—the fluttery crop top worn with a pair of golden yellow cigarette pants, or a pale blue and white pleated midi skirt and sheer knit tank. But that dancer character never really cohered: One minute she was a cutie-pie in a stars ’n’ clouds-print romper; next, the second coming of Jean Harlow in floor-length bias-cut dresses patchworked with lace. Those dresses were very appealing, and there were several other appealing looks, too—the pintucked blouses, for instance, or that pleated trapeze dress with a sexy dive in the back, or the lipstick red jumpsuit with a ruffled sleeve. Plenty of commercial viability here, then, but the point of view was wanting. 

Oct 8, 2013 / 1 note

Supima SS14

-New York Fashion Week-

Supima is America’s luxury cotton: founded in 1954, the Supima brand designates an elite variety of pima cotton grown only in California and the Southwestern U.S. and prized the world over by designers and retailers who value its luster, strength, and superior softness.

Begun in 2008, the annual Supima Design Competition was created to give runway exposure to emerging talent and was modeled on the legendary 1954 Wool Secretariat competition that launched the careers of the then-teenaged Yves St. Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld.

For this fifth Supima Design Competition, four of America’s top design schools were asked to select two finalists from among their graduating seniors. Each finalist was asked to create a capsule collection of women’s eveningwear gowns from premium Supima denims, knits, corduroys, twills, and shirting.

This year’s eight finalists: Bradley Mounce and Carly Rosenbrook from the Fashion Institute of Technology; Sylvia Bukowski and Will Riddle from Kent State; Hannah Soukup and Morgan Selin from the Rhode Island School of Design; and Michelle Leal and Rachel Buske from the Savannah College of Art and Design.

The winner will be announced at the completion of the show and receive an award of $10,000.

— Designers —

Fashion Institute of Technology

Bradley Mounce

Carly Rosenbrook

Kent State

Sylvia Bukowski

Will Riddle

Rhode Island School of Design

Hannah Soukup

Morgan Selin

Savannah College of Art and Design

Michelle Leal

Rachel Buske

Oct 8, 2013 / 6 notes

Creatures of the Wind SS14

-New York Fashion Week-

A group of guys in suits clogged the entranceway to Shane Gabier and Chris Peters’ Creatures of the Wind show today. It was an unusual set of fans for the Chicago duo, who’ve retained their indie cred despite several seasons in the spotlight and a $100,000 Fashion Fund prize. Possibly those suits could be chalked up to a recent investment in the brand by L.A.’s Dock Group. But if they appeared to signal a more buttoned-up, restrained mood, it didn’t materialize on the runway, where the designers delivered on their quirky, offbeat reputation.

Gabier and Peters dubbed the collection Hail Hyperborea, a paradise, according to Greek mythology, where the sun shone 24 hours a day and everyone lived forever. The patchworking and color-blocking they’ve been working on for at least a year now were a central focus here, but rendered in brighter colors (cranberry and blush pink looked pretty together), and the results felt cheerier than usual. The intimate photographs that outsider artist Eugene von Bruenchenhein took of his wife, Marie, (which made a splash this summer at the Venice Biennale) were another inspiration point, and they seem to have informed the collection’s retro, 1940s, western silhouettes.

A few of those pieces—the boxy jackets with full, elbow-length sleeves and a color-blocked waitress dress come to mind—seemed frozen in time. But sporty touches like basketball shorts and high-tech developments including metal knit sweaters gave the whole show a modern feel. Separates were a big part of the story: silk lamé camp shirts, tuxedo trousers, embroidered circle skirts, and pencils. It was a dress, though, that really showed off Gabier and Peters’ know-how. Paneled together from black technical double mesh and pink paper nylon, it was a minor feat of engineering. Best of all was the finale, a full, three-quarter-length wrap dress cinched with a bustier, dripping in “destroyed flower embroidery.” Positively hyperborean.             

Oct 8, 2013 / 7 notes

Richard Chai SS14

-New York Fashion Week-

"Soft geometry" was the theme du jour for Richard Chai. And that theme may have had no better extrapolation than the very first look Chai sent down the runway this morning—a slender white seersucker gilet worn with a sheer pencil skirt and trousers in a hypnotic variegated stripe. The stripe was what popped, and it served as a deft introduction to Chai’s use of graphics. In essence, he was finding ways to play optical tricks, without being migraine-inducing. Frequently that entailed embedding pattern in the texture of the clothes by working tonally or piecing fabrics together, and in other instances that meant applying strong print to diaphanous fabrics and dreamy, bias-cut silhouettes. Chai’s bias-cut slipdresses looked fresh, and for that matter so did his super-wide-leg pants, which he showed with sporty fitted crop tops.

The menswear emphasis, meanwhile, was on leather. That’s a tricky material to advocate for Spring, but the weather is screwy everywhere and fashion’s a global business now, so what the hell? Anyway, as of this season Chai has embarked on a collaboration with leather brand Andrew Marc, so lots of leather was a given. Boys will be snapping up the Andrew Marc x Richard Chai motorcycle jackets, which looked very snappy indeed—quite fitted, and just a bit unexpected in their proportions. The rest of the menswear was rather understated; Chai’s most forceful silhouette proposition was a wide-leg pant, and his iterations looked credible. But for the most part the focus here was on materials, both the aforementioned leather and a handful of creatively messed-with, lightweight seersuckers. The Richard Chai man is ready for any kind of springtime weather.             

Oct 8, 2013 / 4 notes

BCBG Max Azria SS14

-New York Fashion Week-

BCBGMAXAZRIA at New York Fashion Week started the show off with a more light and natural palette and turned it up with deeper colours towards the end. I love the reconstructed pieces which were loose-fitting and the more sheer garments were strong with the lighter colours.

Oct 8, 2013 / 4 notes

Nicholas K SS14

-New York Fashion Week-

Loose and unstructured. Nicholas K’s collection at New York Fashion Week drew inspiration from the original Americans. The runway looks were very interesting as they all centred only on one colour at a time. The palette used was simple and natural which adds to the loosely fitting garments in the breeze. The looks were very urban and casual. Some of Nicholas K’s best selling pieces are in outerwear and in this season, there were some great parkas and jackets - but that’s not all for this season.

Oct 7, 2013 / 144 notes


Nadja Bender, Ashleigh Good, Cara Delevingne for Numero September 2013 by Karl Lagerfeld


Cara Delevingne clad in Burberry and Dolce & Gabbana takes the October 2013 cover of Vogue Australia shot by magazine’s regular Benny Horne with styling from Christine Centenera.
Oct 7, 2013 / 346 notes


Cara Delevingne clad in Burberry and Dolce & Gabbana takes the October 2013 cover of Vogue Australia shot by magazine’s regular Benny Horne with styling from Christine Centenera.

Oct 7, 2013 / 146 notes

Karl Lagerfeld and Choupette.
Oct 7, 2013 / 2,345 notes